Travel reports from our customers
My two weeks of camel trekking in the north of Djanet were an incomparable and unique experience. I would never have thought that the desert was so varied.
Thanks to Inés for her fantastic support in the run-up to the trip.
No question was too much for her and the answers came immediately. Thanks to Tahar for the incredibly professional and attentive support during the trip, the insights into the desert and its culture, the laughter, the flexibility.
Thanks to the camel guides Ibrahim and Ouaoua for their patient way of familiarizing us with the camels and guiding us through the desert and thanks to the cook Mbark for the culinary magic in the desert kitchen.
Unbelievable what you make possible!
Martina
Liebe Ines, lieber Tahar,
diese Tour war meine 4. bei Sahara Reise und wird nicht die letzte bleiben.
Die Eindrücke der Plateau-Landschaft mit ihren Felstürmen, Labyrinthen und unzähligen Felsmalereien aus mehreren Epochen waren sehr stark. Man muß diese spezielle Atmosphäre erlebt haben und kann sie nicht in Bildern und Worten beschreiben: das Gehen durch "Felsräume", Klettern in den Felsen, durch schmale Gänge zu neuen Räumen mit versteckten Felsmalereien kommen. Die Felsen beflügeln die Phantasie und man erkennt verschiedene Figuren und Gegenstände. Wir standen vor den Malereien und rätselten, was sie bedeuten oder was die Menschen ausdrücken wollten. Unvorstellbar, dass die Sahara vor einigen tausend Jahren begrünt war, es Flüsse und Seen gab, Wildtiere und Nutztiere, in den Gewässern Nashörner, Krokodile und Fische.
Guide Bekhi, der über 25 Jahre Erfahrung verfügt, führte uns sicher über das Plateau “Tassili n’Ajjer” und die Felslandschaften von Sefar und Jebbaren. Er schien jeden "Felsenraum" zu kennen und führte uns durch die Labyrinthe. Koch M'Bark verwöhnte uns mit Köstlichkeiten der algerischen bzw. Tuareg Küche und die Eselführer Hammu und Merbet brachten täglich Ausrüstung und unser Gepäck sicher an den nächsten Übernachtungsplatz. 9 kleine Esel trugen geduldig unser Gepäck und die gesamte Ausrüstung einer Trekkingwoche.
Wunschgemäß konnten wir noch drei zusätzliche Tage Trekking mit Jeepbegleitung im Norden von Djanet im Nationalpark “Tassili n’Ajjer” verleben. Für mich war es im Dünen-/Felsengebiet wie schon in vergangenen Jahren unglaublich schön und beeindruckend, fast schon emotional.
Vielen Dank an Tahar, der die gesamte Trekking-Reise perfekt geplant hat, uns vom frühen Morgen bis späten Abend betreute und uns Wünsche von den Augen ablas - es gab immer genügend Kaffee, Kekse und Erdnüsse.
Vielen Dank auch an Ines, die uns besonders bei den Flügen mit Air Algerie sehr behilflich war."
Monika
Our stay in Djanet´s northern parts from 6th to 19th January 2024
It was already my second trip to this region and I would like to recommend it truly to all those who take interest in it.
This part of the desert is a most unique landscape, well worth a visit.
Ines and Tahar our tour guides were most flexible and helpful. They even supported our wish to perform a ruminant dancing class in the middle of the desert during our first week.
During our second week we wandered with camels along the national park.
Everything was prepared and organized with a subtle eye for details.
Arrival and departure were well planned and our so-called “salon” where we took our meals was ravishing, a lovely oasis for the senses.
I would like to highly appreciate the work of the whole team. We met two chefs in two weeks and we met two camel drivers. They were all absolutely reliable, friendly and good-natured.
Our meals were prepared with thorough care, they looked and tasted gorgeously.
I never came to understand how the chefs managed these wonderful meals under the circumstances of the rules the desert provides.
All in all I spent a most happy time there and I shall keep people, camels and nature
tenderly in my thoughts and my heart.
Dear team, I would like to thank you all, you are terrific!
Angelique
Hello Sahara Reise Team,
Today we arrived back in Algiers after staying in Djanet. It was very nice, interesting days and encounters in a completely different world and we really enjoyed it.
Tahar is a very friendly and charming person and we got along very well.
Compared to staying in Timmimoun last year, it was a much more intense experience.
All in all it was a great trip.
Thank you both.
Greetings from Algiers from Hedwig and Christian
Sahara trekking trip in Algeria, from Nov. 19 to Dec. 4, 2022.
Flight via Vienna, Paris, Algiers to Djanet.
In Djanet we were picked up from the airport and brought to the hotel in Ifri, 10 km away.
After 4 hours of sleep, visit to the museum, bazaar and departure in a Toyota 4-wheel drive ("Japanese camel") to the first camp site.
The next day over the Assakaou pass with 6 pack camels and 2 riding camels to the high plateau of Tassili n ́ Ajjer. Breathtaking landscape, bizarre rock towers, at night a clear starry sky by the fire with the Tuaregs.
Very cold in the tent with my thin sleeping bag.
Tahar, owner of the agency, already guided Reinhold Messner on this route under Wuawua in 2008 and now speaks German, gives me three camel blankets.The travel organizer Ines sleeps sportily without a tent, in the morning with ice on her sleeping bag. Rides Aura, her camel independently and also saddles it.French is important, Tuaregs do not speak English. Arabic is their slang language.
The next days we march up to 20 km behind the camels. Camels go almost 7 km/h on the plains, not easy to follow, especially on the sand. At the pass they gasp, stumble and sometimes stumble. They grumble as they saddle up.
Wuawua the caravan leader, born in Tassilli, has supreme authority over the camels.
Almost daily deviations from the caravan route to the 10,000-year-old rock drawings according to the travel guide.
Surely a tourist highlight, but who is an expert.
The Tuaregs are nomads, frugal, modest, work hard with the camels, cook for us, are content and happy, sing while marching.
Bake themselves bread every day in the embers, which they crumble and eat from a bowl with sauce, and brew their sweet tea. No tourist show, frugal self-catering. Where and when they sleep, I didn't find out until the end.
An upright breed of people, not yet deformed by tourism.
Here you can learn philosophy of life, perhaps the most important thing of this trip.
What is important in life? How much consumption and luxury do people need?
Approx. 120 total kilometers marched, 1⁄4 camel ride.
An extraordinary trip, recommended.
Reinhard M. (Austria)
Magical desert, Sonnhild Grevel,
in January 2021
It is still twilight, but the horizon is already glowing pink - another breathtaking sunrise is heralding. I peel myself out of my cozy down sleeping bag and a slight sadness overcomes me, because today is my last day, here in the southern Algerian desert. A few lights shimmer further ahead and I spontaneously go there, I want to enjoy the stillness that I was able to experience the last two weeks all to myself this morning. I always follow the little streaks of light, only gradually it gets lighter. I persistently put one foot in front of the other in the deep sand, which makes walking exhausting, and suddenly I know: The lights up there are the houses of Djanet, the beginning and end of our camel trek.
I've been running for a good half an hour and sit down on a thick boulder and then it breaks through, at first it's just a first flash over the dark ridge of sand in front of me, but a few seconds later a glistening streak - then the sun is there , powerful and warming after the cold desert night. The bright light makes the silhouette of Djanet fade, the still dark sand hills shine, a new day comes with unbridled power. I can't move, I'm caught up in this mighty natural spectacle and I want to give this experience a voice. Should I sing like I've done on the back of my riding cam for the past few days? No, that feels too weak for this indescribable moment, so I say a prayer out loud. I feel small and insignificant in this loneliness of stony hills, sand and sky and grateful that I am allowed to have this experience. I want to capture the moment and know that it will become a special memory for me, especially with its transience.
The lights of Djanet are out in the bright sunlight and I know I have to go back. Before that, I'll take a few photos. You cannot capture this unique atmosphere, but I want to be able to look at the brave little plant that survived the sandstorm and look at the bizarre rock again later and remember it. A few more photos and I'll start my way back. In the distance I see three rock formations, behind one of which we spent the night. Only behind which one, rather the one on the far left? no, it was probably the one in the middle. I can not decide. Where is our night camp? I walked 40 minutes from our rest area - a detour would take a lot of time and energy. I remain at a loss - in which direction should I go? Then I think of a tip from our group leader: If you are looking for your way back, always go back exactly in your own footsteps. I often tramped back and forth through the sand for the photos, but now I want to consistently follow my tracks, I don't shorten either, but follow every curl, otherwise I would leave even more cluttered tracks in the sand. I keep my eyes on the footprints and a few pictures from the last few days mix in between: I can almost feel the sharp-edged bottom of the rocky mountains over which we led the camels on a long leash, because the careful camel drivers had us with the frequently slipping stones Let them sit down, because we could easily have lost our balance on the sure-footed, but violently swaying animals. Then I see the outlines of the musicians by the sparkling fire and hum one of the foreign melodies, in between the angry cries of protest from the beasts of burden pushing through. I have the intense taste of the North African spices on my tongue again, all the delicious dishes that our cook conjured up for us under the simplest of conditions for lunch and dinner. I close my eyes for a moment and the full moon rises again, which illuminated us for the first few nights and I remember the countless falling stars in the middle of the clear night, which I could hardly count. I wished to come back to one of them, maybe next November. When I cross the wide plains on the back of the animals in the swaying pass or watch the sun go down while sitting on a dune ridge while the fine sand trickles through my fingers, I discover the slowness for myself.
The sun rises higher and already gives an inkling of the heat of the day. Hopefully the others don't miss me yet - I don't know what time it is, probably already seven and breakfast time. I have probably now covered more than half the distance and can feel the sun strongly on my back - the warmth is still good. I am shocked when I realize that, following my tracks, I am walking towards the far left of the three rock formations. My feeling would have led me wrong. A few minutes later I walk past my orphaned sleeping place to the fire every morning, where coffee, roasted toast and the other women in my group are waiting for me. In the distance I also spot the camel drivers who bring our companion animals back from their nocturnal feeding grounds. It is always a breathtaking sight when the sons of the desert ride up with billowing clothes.
Our camel tour January 4th, 2020
We went to Frankfurt Airport and off to Algeria with great excitement. The thoughts still revolved around whether there were the right things in the luggage. Even if I had received a lot of tips and advice beforehand. The whole journey was fraught with positive experiences. We shortened our long stopover with a trip to the city center of Algiers, which was easy to cope with thanks to the helpfulness of the Algerians.
After the late departure we arrived in Djanet quite exhausted and just fell into our beds. The next day we went to the market to buy any missing items. And to provide us with material for our shesh (turban).
On our trip, we also learned how to “tie” a shesh. And I wore it every day. Djanet was still visited and then the cars went into the desert. The first look at our camels was dared. As a total newbie, I was very, very despondent to meet such a large animal. I was also curious to see if I could do this.
We moved into our first quarters. We were able to use a small tent (I was traveling with my sister).
Everyone looked for a place, far enough away from the others so that one wasn't disturbed, but was still close by. We spent the first night under the stars. Unfortunately it was very cold at night in January, so we spoiled townspeople preferred to crawl into the tent.
The encounter with the camels was a great experience. Somehow everyone found an animal that suited them and took it to their hearts. You quickly got used to your "companion", even as a newcomer and not particularly experienced with large animals, it was good for me to master.
Our day trips were very, very varied. There were always new landscapes, rock formations, fossils and unique water points to discover. Our tours already required stamina and surefootedness. It went up and down rocky routes with the camel behind.
At lunchtime we were always received by the cargo camels and our “crew” with a delicious, light lunch, after which we usually went on after a long lunch break. Camel up or on foot with that animal on a leash behind it. Personally, I've ridden here and there, but I liked running better, closer to the ground.
After 2-3 days you had your routine: getting dressed in the morning, packing, bringing things to the assembly point. Drank our first coffee by the fire, had breakfast, after a short break the camels came or we fetched them. Get ready and go. Run or ride according to your own taste. Lunch break and on.
In the evening after arrival, looked for his place and set up a tent, sorted his things and made himself comfortable by the campfire. We sat together and later we were spoiled again with a delicious meal.
We liked a rest area very much, so we decided to stay 2 nights after a mutual agreement. During the day we went hiking in the area. And everyone got a bottle of water to wash their hair, which was a treat.
There were always surprises: bread was baked in the sand, special skewers were grilled, every evening or after dinner we received the 3 teas (from bitter to sweet), prepared with a lot of effort. Let yourself be surprised. On the last evening we were said goodbye to music, wonderful. Then in the morning we went back over sand dunes in jeeps. One last night and tomorrow in the direction of Algiers and then Frankfurt.
You lead a contemplative tour and slow down very slowly, despite physical exertion.
A desert-like silence, an overwhelming starry sky, but also total darkness, if no moon illuminates the way, surrounds you. So close to the earth and nature. All this made me forget the comfort (shower etc.) and everyday life. Where are you without water, electricity and cell phone reception?
The tour was a great experience that I wouldn't want to miss and that I can hopefully repeat again.
Ellen L.
Méharée in Tassili n'Ajjer 04.01. - 25.01.2020
For a long time I had dreamed of going on a desert tour with dromedaries in the Algerian Sahara and learning more about the life of the Tuareg. While searching through a French online forum, I came across the name Tahar Marmouri, who organizes desert tours in Djanet. When I was looking for contact details, I got a link to Inés Boelke, who supports Tahar from Germany. After getting to know Inés and Tahar personally, who was just staying in Germany, my dream took shape. At this point I have to mention that I lived in Algeria a long time ago and I have very positive memories of the country and the mentality of the Algerians.
The day of travel was approaching, all preparations were made. Thanks to Inés' great support, we got our visa from the Algerian consulate in Frankfurt. The travel bags were packed with typical travel utensils for the desert, such as tents, sleeping bags, water bottles, chèche, drinking cups, flashlights, suitable shoes, clothes for the day and particularly warm things for the night, because the temperatures in the desert fluctuate a lot and it can sometimes be 0 ° C or below at night. Due to my own experiences on several other desert tours, I have typical desert clothing etc.
Originally my friend and I planned 3 weeks in the Sahara alone, but Iné's friends expanded the group to 7 participants for 2 weeks, which made us happy.
All friends of the desert met at Frankfurt Airport to take off for Algiers.
We used the 8-hour stay for a tour through Algiers, which for me was an emotional joy to meet again. With the 2nd flight at midnight we reached the airport at Djanet at around 2:00 am, where we were greeted by Tahar and then we found a few hours of sleep / relaxation from the trip in the newly built part of the Hotel Zeriba in Djanet. I was pleasantly surprised by the very clean, well-furnished Hotel Zeriba, which I can highly recommend.
After breakfast, Tahar showed us his hometown and led us through Djanet to the bazaar souk and a typical Tuareg museum and we learned something about the history and life of the Tuareg - or the Imuhar, as they are called there in their language will.
After a typical Arabic lunch, we drove straight into the landscape and vastness of the Sahara in desert-ready SUVs. On the way, a number of rock formations gave us an idea of what to expect in terms of the landscape on our tour and we looked forward to it with excitement. On the way we met our camel caravan with our Tuareg companions.
When we arrived at our first place to spend the night, we made ourselves familiar with our surroundings and everyone chose their tent sleeping place. In the meantime our camel caravan reached us and we made acquaintance with our desert companions.
In the evening there was a delicious meal by the fire, we were set up like a "salon" on prepared mats and surrounded by a windbreak. The typical very sweet frothed tea in three phases rounded off the meal. Soon we were very tired because the last night was a little short from the trip.
I enjoyed my first night in the Sahara under a clear starry sky and the sounds of the desert and was excited about the next few days.
In the morning we packed up our tents and things before breakfast, because from today our daily tour began. After breakfast we chose our riding camels, which took some time and felt like a ceremony. The camels sniffed us first and mutual sympathy arose from rider and animal and so the selection was made, which remained throughout the tour.
Everyone was now responsible for their camel and after a crash course from our Tuareg companions they were able to pack it independently with the typical saddle and small luggage for the road. Our cargo camels were loaded with heavy luggage and kitchen utensils. Then we went on the first stretch through a beautiful landscape with stately rock formations that made a big impression on us
and the cameras clicked. After keeping our camels on a leash for a while, it was time to try our first horse riding. Getting on and off a camel is always associated with a little palpitation, because when you get up and kneel down the camel, you sway tremendously from front to back and vice versa.
To see the landscape on the back of a dromedary is much more beautiful and the vastness more poignant.
During a lunch break, we were greeted by an excellent, also visually lovingly arranged meal and we enthusiastically praised our cook Mimi, who spoiled us every day with the most delicious local dishes. After every morning and afternoon tour, tasty little snacks such as olives, nuts, biscuits, raisins etc. and drinks of all kinds as well as cocoa awaited us before the main meal was served.
Every day over hill and dale, steep rocky passes and through crevices, our desert guide Wawa and Tahar accompanied us through the spectacular landscape. We met Gueltas and nomad graves, looked at ancient, very clear rock paintings, met nomad families with their animals and were impressed by the vegetation such as the thorny acacia trees, bushes and flowers in the gigantic rocks and sand dunes, some of which were full of color. A special highlight was the meeting with a herd of camel mares with their babies. I still have the baby camel sounds in my ears today. We also got camel milk, the best milk I have ever drunk.
The experience of the sunsets with the special light high up on the dunes made us dream and we slipped into deep relaxation after an eventful day. With this rhythm we experienced every day of our desert tour.
Tahar, who is also a musician, had a special surprise for us. He and his band gave us a live concert on site one evening. There was singing and dancing and we enjoyed the evening in a spirited mood in the campfire until late into the night.
The next day our group shrank and we continued the tour in the third week with our companions. The landscape changed and we approached the great Erg with its breathtaking, massive, large strand of sand dunes. Since we were traveling with camels and the animals would not find any food there in the Erg, we only marveled at the large dune landscape at close range.
Nevertheless, our way led us over large dunes framed by rock formations, in which we marveled at more rock paintings. It's unbelievable what life must have taken place here tens of thousands of years ago.
The last day in the Sahara came and the farewell was approaching. We got sad.
We spent 3 fantastic dreamy weeks in the Sahara.
We were very well looked after by our very friendly Tuareg companions, we were well looked after and always led through our tour in the best of moods. A big praise and deep, heartfelt thanks to Tahar and our Tuareg companions for the entire very good organization and the selection of the tour, which brought us closer to their homeland and which we will feed on this special trip for a long time. Thanks to their camels, who carried us safely on their backs and who inspired us with their manner, grace and patience in dealing with us strangers.
I love this country Algeria, the desert and its people with their open manner and mentality. We had to leave the people behind, the memories of the beautiful encounters with them and this wonderful journey will continue to accompany us and the longing for the Sahara remains. And when we can no longer stand the longing, we like to come back. Inshallah.
Carola D.
I have been going on trekking tours in desert areas every year since 2009, but despite the great landscapes, none has captivated me as much as the Tassili and Tadrart national park areas in the southern Algerian central Sahara. The impressions, especially of the breathtaking and very varied landscape, stayed with me for a long time after every tour.
Overall, I have enjoyed 3 trekking stays with Tahar and his team and I hope to be able to do more tours with him.
Photos, videos and reports from Ines Boelke about trekking and camel tours near Tahar Marmouri had made me want to get to know the Central Sahara in southern Algeria for a long time. At a meeting with Tahar in Frankfurt, a tour in the Tassili National Park was discussed according to personal wishes.
We, two experienced "desert women" experienced a very varied tour in 2018; Every day and every part of the day was different: sometimes we hiked through rock labyrinths, sometimes dune landscapes of different sizes, sometimes wide flat plains. Tahar was always a very attentive and caring companion. The escort team, which was on the way with a pickup, spoiled us with culinary Tuareg dishes and Algerian cuisine. When we arrived at the camp site, a “living room” had already been set up, drinks and various snacks were available. If we were a little late on the tour, the pickup driver Mustafa came towards us. It was fun to be with the team: as soon as we left the camp for a new day's stage, Mustafa turned up Tuareg music from the car radio and did his work almost dancing. On the way in the pickup it could happen that the team stopped the car, they got out and danced to music by Tinariven or Tamikrest.
The culmination of this tour were desert concerts by the group Toulout, of which Tahar is a founder and member.
In the same year, I went on another tour with Tahar and his team with my daughter. This time he primarily showed us the UNESCO area of Tadrart. Shortly before our trip it had rained for a while and so we saw Tadrart in lush greenery. The short-term lakes in the Mulan Naga area, with dunes and acacias reflected in the water surface, were an unforgettable experience. The very varied landscape with its huge dunes of yellow and red sand, dark rocks and mountains seemed like a film set. On the daily hikes we also visited the many rock drawings and engravings. Our storage locations have been carefully selected; we have never had such beautiful “bedrooms” and “bathrooms”. We were spoiled with Tuareg dishes from Koch Salam.
On my third tour in January 2020 (this time camel trekking) with six other desert-loving women, we hiked through far and higher areas of the Tassili National Park. It was amazing how sure-footed the dromedaries climbed up into the mountains, along rock faces, over steep passes up and down again. The escort team went a different route with the pack animals, so that when we arrived at the campsite we found a warming fire, drinks and snacks.
The route was again very varied, every day of the day different. From the mountains over stony black plains, through gorges with colored rocks, over wide sandy areas to rock formations and dunes. Gueltas (water basins) of various sizes and rock drawings were particularly impressive.
We were again very well looked after by Tahar and his team.
On the last evening there was an almost four-hour Tuareg music concert by the group Toulout under the starry sky. A very nice, unforgettable mood.
Monika BJ
After two stays in the desert in Tunisia and Morocco, in October 2018 I went on a ten-day tour with my mother through the Tadrart area in Algeria. Tahar was with us as our guide, Salam as our cook and Mustafa as our driver. We hiked through beautiful, varied landscapes that bloomed from a lot of rain in the previous weeks and gave us one or two surprises: behind a dune, a large lake, created by the rain, suddenly opened up around a rock. Besides so many other nice surprises on the tour, it was a particularly unique experience.
During our trip, Tahar read all our wishes from our eyes and always made sure that we are well looked after and feel comfortable. Mustafa always ensured a good mood and even let me drive his jeep. Salam provided us with the most delicious food. So we were already looking forward to his delicious salads and Tuareg specialties in the evening every morning.
In short: the trip in the Tadrart was exceptionally beautiful and an experience that you will never forget.
Kim J.
It's been almost exactly a year since I sat on packed suitcases (figuratively speaking, in fact, of course, it was a travel bag and a backpack). Last check, everything there: tent, sleeping mat, my warmest sleeping bag, thick down jacket, Wool sweater, trekking boots, wool blanket - in January it's cold in the desert!
Otherwise a minimum of laundry and clothes. The passport with the Algerian visa that Inés had obtained in advance. Also what I always take with me into the desert: chèche, drinking bottle, mug, flashlight, pocket knife.
Then it starts - departure from Frankfurt on Saturday morning, direct flight to Algiers. From there on to Djanet in the evening, where we arrive around 2:00 a.m. and are picked up by Tahar. We drive to Hotel Zeriba in Djanet, move into very clean rooms for the rest of the night and sleep a few more hours.
In the morning, after breakfast in the hotel, we go to the market, do a little city tour, have lunch in a local restaurant and then, in the afternoon, we finally go out into the Sahara. For many years I have been longing for the Algerian part of the Sahara, where I was on my own decades ago. In the meantime there was much else going on, in the world and in my life, in Algeria civil war, I had a child, but the memory of the Algerian Sahara remained. My friend, with whom I went on this trip, then met Inés, we also met Tahar in Frankfurt and decided to go to Tassili N'Ajjer with them for three weeks in January 2020. Four more women came with me, so that there were seven of us in the first two weeks and only three in the last week.
Our actual tour then begins on Monday - daily walking through absolutely spectacular landscapes. Rock formations that take my breath away. Steep rocky passes with the camels, and never in my life would I have thought that camels could walk in this area. But they take one step behind the other, confidently and without hesitation. In general, these animals are a single joy, elegant, peaceful, patient, easy to manage.
Wawa, our wonderful guide, shows us rock paintings that are thousands of years old in places that are partly very hidden and partly difficult to access (he'll find them all!), And leads us to Gueltas, where we water the animals and take us with us.
Mimi, the best cook between El Oued and Agadez, surprises us every day with delicious and visually lovingly presented dishes. Whenever we come “home” from our hike (that is, to our camp site for the night), a large selection of small delicacies awaits us - olives, biscuits, raisins, lemons, nuts and various drinks. And after a few days there are nomads who sell us a goat, and so there is Malfouf and grilled meat.
We find nomad graves; mosques laid with stones in the sand; Landscapes that make you think of the “Lord of the Rings”; Flowers in black rock; Stones of all colors; Thorn acacias, the leaves of which the camels can taste; Nomad families with their animals; a newborn camel baby, and Kadir gets camel milk for us. The place where we have a view of the expanse of the Erg d'Admer dune landscape just before sunset will be unforgettable forever.
It actually rains on our last day! From late morning a quiet, gentle drizzle that forces us to put on our raincoat. And again the Tuareg look after us so carefully and lovingly! Finding a place under a ledge, cover the ground with dry sand so that we are comfortable. And in the evening the rain stops, the sky shows itself again in all its splendor over this archaic, overwhelming landscape. And I can put up my little tent again and look into the infinity of the starry sky while falling asleep.
It was a wonderful trip, well organized, everything just worked out and we felt safe and protected by our friendly and humorous Tuareg companions. I've already enthusiastically told a few friends about it, maybe I'll come with you again. Inchallah.
Stefanie K.
My first trip to Algeria and the southern Sahara.
It all started with Inès, who was still a very young friendship at the time, presented a self-designed photo album from the Algerian desert.
This diversity of the varied colors, shapes and landscapes was fascinating
me right away.
My decision was made.
I want to experience that too.
Thanks to Inès' good experience and knowledge, the preparations (e.g. visa) were uncomplicated.
The date to fly in November was quickly determined, because the heat there is no longer so great during the day, and here you can quickly escape the November blues. Question after question, all of which Inès answered patiently and to our satisfaction.
She dealt with the formalities at the consulate and with Tahar, “our” local shop steward, the accommodation and the conditions of the country of Algeria on site. With their best knowledge and experience, both have given us a list of what is necessary, important and advisable ...
We were a group of 5 women (including Inès), 3 of whom never did! Dive into such an impressive, beautiful world.
Landed in Algiers, it was raining, our stay lasted about 10 hours, Inès provided the first surprise by booking a hotel room to shorten the waiting time for us.
In the evening, refreshed, we boarded the next plane for the 2nd stage.
After many hours of flight over totally dark zones, we landed in Djanet in the morning, slightly tired.
Tahar received us with great joy.
He organized 2 cars with which we were brought to our home for about an hour (I don't remember exactly).
The airport is very simple, but the flight crew is very nice and polite.
Lights, strangers with their clothes, houses in different shapes accompanied me and let me immerse myself in this wonderful world.
Overtired from the long journey and yet excited for the "new" we lay in "our" night camps. Everything is well prepared.
The 1st day:
After a good breakfast, Tahar drove us, now dressed in summer clothes, but with arms and legs covered, into the city to the market. Jewelry, a shesch (the ideal headgear for the desert) was our wish to buy.
A lively hustle and bustle in bright colors, the sun quickly left our everyday lives behind us.
Tahar led us safely through the market halls, knowing exactly where we were going.
Another night that we spent up on the house in the evening with delicious food,
then it should finally start. We left our civilization clothes tightly locked in our suitcases in the house.
Again with cars we were driven with all the luggage (pots, dishes, food, etc.) to the outskirts of Djanet to our meeting point and there we waited .... The landscape stony and dry
A while passed, we pondered in the sun ...
And then one of us shouted “Look, there are camels coming!” 10 of them !!
they were for us, a joy and unrest arose. 5 camels were for all our luggage; the others were for us, equipped with saddles and blankets. Everyone was allowed to “choose” one that should carry us into the next “he”. As if attracted by a magnet, I approached “my” camel; a white one with a torn out nostril ..
First we made each other familiar by each of us leading his camel on a leash; and he trotted faithfully after me, as if we had known each other for ages, I felt this soft snout so pleasantly on my neck, and the feeling was to accompany me in such a wonderful way for many days to come.
And then came the most beautiful and wonderful moment: the ascent
A moment I will never forget. This trust of the camel, with its stoic calm, was indulged, as for how many times, such an ignorant and inexperienced tourist, and with a huge portion of patience, which our helpers brought with them helped us into the saddle. My camel rose very elegantly, first with its hind legs with me! And it rocked hard. I had great confidence and never felt insecure for a minute. A feeling of happiness!
Perhaps the place of the ascent was not quite the right one; on the left rocks upwards, on the right a view downwards, which appeared even deeper due to the high position on our camel. However, I didn't mind ... I knew my camel leads and carries me safely through this fantastic landscape, which I could enjoy even more from up here.
For only half a day we rode to our first overnight place, which (like everyone else) Tahar had chosen carefully and with good knowledge.
The evening camp was set up quickly by our companions. A salon, surrounded by a windbreak, a fire for warming and as a light source ... Next door was the kitchen and after a few moments it smelled of good food.
Before it got dark, we looked for a suitable place to sleep in the open air for each of us with the help of Tahar and Inés; not so far away from the salon, but far enough to preserve your own privacy and that of the other, and yet safe from the wind ...
We put mats that we got from Tahar and our pack sacks. Prepared everything for the night, Tahar went with us to a place from which we could enjoy a sunset in the most beautiful colors and impressions; pretty much 6 p.m.
The hunger announced itself, and with our headlamps we ran to the salon, where our shoes were taken off in front of it, if you please.
Halifa "our" cook served us a very special dinner. Warm food, lentils, meat wonderfully seasoned with local spices. A starter with raw vegetables, cucumber, olives, tomatoes and cola! Water so precious and delicious. We were also surprised with dates for dessert.
Some time later a very special tea was celebrated for us.
Green tea with a lot of sugar, which is poured over again and again and thus gets a foam cap, a Schesch. It is infused three times.
The 1st infusion: love; the 2nd: life; the 3rd: death.
The fire warmed us, and we talked about our experiences and impressions from the 1st day in the desert ...... I was there, I couldn't really believe it yet.
Also the night, with excitement and with the unfamiliar location under the open sky, gave me again wonderful impressions: A starry sky so close, full of glitter and overflowing with shining dots and a rain of falling stars. Very rarely did the sounds and lights of airplanes bring us back to the memory of civilization. Then you lie in your self-built nest, reflecting on the past ... yes and also that three nights earlier I flew up there over this still so unknown landscape ... And now I've arrived, already familiar ... .
The sunrise - uniquely beautiful - a new day beginning with good, fragrant coffee, was waiting for us.
Everyone packed up their things and brought everything to our people, who distributed them perfectly tied up on the load camels. At night the camels had a free "exit", their front feet tied together so that they did not run so far away, they could then eat in the wild. In the early hours of the morning they were brought back to us, saddled and packed. As soon as everything was tied and packed, the team of helpers hiked ahead in order to make all preparations in good time at the lunch spot. We, freshly strengthened, rode in a roundabout way through bizarre worlds that always looked different. The colors of the sand; the shapes of the rocks, the vegetation everything was a game of change. I just couldn't get enough of this fantastic landscape. From on top of my camel's back I saw geckos disappear into their burrows in a flash; People who wandered around with their animals, such as goats, donkeys who stopped curiously, and other camels who wandered around alone.
Some days I preferred to run, my camel thanked me, at least that was my impression. With its thick, horny, sensitive feet, it trotted after me with its pace, and I felt its soft, fluffy snout very close to me on my neck. A familiar feeling.
Tahar showed us unusual landscapes, huge sand dunes, water holes, green areas that are hard to imagine, rock paintings that are more than 4000 years old, paths through which huge amounts of water must have flowed recently. And sunsets anew every evening and yet always different.
The 2 weeks went by in a flash. Far away from the hustle and bustle, car stink and the daily must (although a must here in the community as well)
I love to think back to these unique experiences ...
so that I made a second trip there the following year.
She was very different, but no less beautiful. I recognized some places, my home from last year ..
And Tahar said it to us so often, “Welcome, go home”. That's how I felt.
Ute K.
Mein erstes kennenlernen der Wüste war mit meiner Nichte zusammen. Zuhause fragten mich die Freundinnen, was ich in der Wüste wolle. Ja, was wollte ich dort? Wissen, wie ich auf diese Leere, Weite und Minimalismus reagieren würde. Eins sein mit dem beruhigendem Schaukeln auf dem Kamel und die gute Aussicht. Oder auch das endlose Laufen durch die Stille manchmal sogar in Socken. Spannend sind auch die archäologischen Führungen, die Tahar oft einbindet. Ich habe ganz ehrfürchtig davor gestanden.
Die Freude den ganzen Tag und die Nacht draußen zu verbringen, einfach genießen. Ich kann so wunderbar abschalten in der Wüste. Sie beruhigt mich einfach . Unser Wüstenführer in der interessanten,algerischen Wüste, heißt Tahar.
Mit der ruhigen, freundlichen Art kann ich diese besondere Weise zu reisen in vollen Zügen genießen. Zumal er sich mit Erfolg bemüht hat die Deutsche Sprache zu lernen. So ist die Kommunikation erleichtert. Ein tolles Erlebnis ist, in Tahar‘s „Salon“ den Abend ausklingen zu lassen. Bei wunderbarem Sternenhimmel , Lagerfeuer und leckerem Tuaregtee. Die Krönung, wenn Tahar die Gitarre nimmt und mit seinen „Jungs“ spielt und singt.
Wenn ich dann später im Schlafsack liege, die Sterne schaue, weiß ich, dass Tahar jedes Platz der Nachtlager der Mitreisenden kennt. Das gibt Beruhigung und wir können alle gut schlafen und träumen vom nächsten Tag in der Wüste.
Ich freue mich jeden Morgen auf den Sonnenaufgang.
Die algerische Wüste zu bewandern oder zu bereiten ohne Tahars fürsorgliche, hilfsbereite und betreuende Art, ich kann es mir für mich nicht vorstellen. Unvergessene Urlaube.
Klara F.
Viele Jahre lag das Buch „Die Wüsten der Erde, 365 Tage“ von Michael Martin auf meinem Couchtisch und ich konnte jeden Tag ein neues Blatt aufschlagen und mich an dem wunderbaren Foto erfreuen.
Es waren Aufnahmen von allen Wüsten aber die von Algerien, von der Sahara, haben mich immer besonders fasziniert. Und so war im Hinterkopf der Gedanke und der Wunsch, nicht nur die Bilder zu betrachten, sondern selber durch den Sand zu laufen und die warme Sonne auf der Haut zu spüren.
Und dann wurde aus dem Wunsch Wirklichkeit, denn ich hatte die Gelegenheit bekommen, mit zwei Freundinnen nach Djanet zu fliegen und auf dem Rücken eines Kamels unter der Führung von einheimischen Tuarek die südliche Sahara in Algerien zu durchwandern, mal mit dem Kamel und mal zu Fuß. Angst hatte ich keine, denn die Gefahr, sich zu verirren und zu verdursten, gehört dank GPS der Vergangenheit an.
Wir drei flogen nach Algier, hatten dort einen Aufenthalt und dann ging es weiter nach Tamanrassat. Nach kurzem Aus- und Einladen flogen wir weiter nach Djanet, wo wir sehr herzlich mit einem „Willkommen tu Hause“ empfangen wurden. Nach vielen Kontrollen und den ersten neuen Eindrücken konnten wir ins Gästehaus fahren, um kurz zu schlafen und unsere Sachen vom Koffer in einen Seesack zu packen. Kein Kamel möchte mit einem Koffer in der Wüste unterwegs sein!
Und dann ging es am Folgetag los. Die Kamele kamen, 3 Reitkamele, 5 Lastenkamele und 3 Kamele, die nur so mitliefen. Wir suchten uns ein Tier aus, es bekam einen Namen und wir bekamen Hilfe beim Aufsteigen. Die tüchtigen Tuareg haben dann die Lastenkamele beladen und dann ging es ab im Gänsemarsch. Ich muss zugeben, dass ich mächtig aufgeregt war und ganz weiche Knie bekam. Ein Zurück gab es nicht, ich musste durchhalten. Gleichzeitig fand ich es wunderbar, so gemächlich in 2 Meter Höhe durch eine völlig neue Landschaft sanft zu schaukeln. Man sah Gegenden, die Mondlandschaften glichen, also menschenfeindlich, kein Strauch, kein Halm und Wasser schon gar nicht.
Dann kamen wir durch eine unbeschreiblich schöne Gegend, wo wir Dünen hoch gelaufen und wieder runter gerutscht sind. Wir haben Gräber gesehen und mit Steinen gelegte Moscheen. Ein Begleiter erklärte uns, dass die Nomaden, von denen ein Mitglied in der Wüste stirbt, diese Person sofort beisetzen. Den oder die Verstorbene kann die Gruppe nicht tagelang bis zur nächsten Siedlung mitnehmen. Erwähnen möchte ich an dieser Stelle, dass unsere Begleiter uns immer wieder vieles erzählten und geduldig erklärten.
Gesprochen wurde in französisch, die Sprache der Tuareg ist Tamascheq, was für uns fremd war. Manchmal wurde auch mit Händen und Füßen gesprochen und dabei viel gelacht.
An einem Tag sind wir zu einem Wasserloch gelaufen und haben die Füße nass gemacht. Da gab es viel Fröhlichkeit. An einem anderen Tag haben wir Felsmalereien gesehen. Die dargestellten Menschen und Tiere aus der letzten Feuchtperiode waren gut zu erkennen und doch schon viele Tausend Jahre alt. So gibt es lebensgroße detailgetreue Gravuren zweier Giraffen in einem Felsen in der Ténéré. Das Alter der Gravuren wird auf 8000 Jahre geschätzt. –
Einer unserer Begleiter hat immer wieder mit uns einen Fußmarsch gemacht. So konnten sich die Tiere erholen und das Laufen tat uns auch gut. Bei diesen Wanderungen bekamen wir viel zu sehen und zu bestaunen, wie z.B. eine Schlange, Pfotenabdrücke eines Schakals oder wir sahen die kleinen Mula Mula. Das sind schwarz-weiße Vögel, unseren Schwalben recht ähnlich. In einiger Entfernung sahen wir auch wilde Esel und begleitete Ziegenherden.
Unser Koch hat uns auch immer wieder überrascht und begeistert. Immer wieder hat er tolle Platten hergerichtet und wir konnten mit viel Appetit zulangen. Alles sah so lecker aus, dass ich es immer wieder fotografiert habe. Das hat ihn gefreut und stolz gemacht und das sollte es auch. Es ist mir noch heute ein Rätsel, wie er es schaffte, in relativ kurzer Zeit, so viel gesundes Essen anzurichten. Auf der ganzen Reise hatte kein Teilnehmer bzw. keine Teilnehmerin Magen- und Darmprobleme. Uns allen ging es ausgesprochen gut.
Besonders schön war die Teezeremonie. Dann legen die Tuareg ein paar wenige glimmende Holzstücke in ein Drahtgeflecht und stellen die Teekanne auf das Kohlebett. In der Kanne befinden sich Blätter eines chinesischen grünen Tees, ein paar Minzblätter und Zucker. Sobald der Tee heiß ist, wird er so oft aus großer Höhe in ein Glas geschüttet, bis sich im Glas eine hohe Schaumschicht gebildet hat. Das ist der Tee für die erste Runde. Insgesamt werden drei Gläser getrunken. „Das erste Glas ist bitter wie der Tod, das zweite durchwachsen wie das Leben, das dritte süß wie die Liebe“, sagen die Tuareg. Für das zweite und dritte Glas wird der Tee, der vom vorherigen Aufguss zurückbehalten wurde, mit Wasser in der Kanne nachgefüllt. In der Glut wurde dann noch das Brot gebacken. Der Teig in der Größe einer Pizza wurde in die Glut gelegt und nach 30 Minuten war das Brot fertig, wurde nach Abklopfen der Asche und Abkühlung aufgeteilt und warm gegessen.
Wenn wir nicht auf dem Kamel saßen, so haben wir es an einer Kordel hinter uns hergezogen. Die Tiere waren alle sanftmütig und wenn mein Kamel hinter meinem Rücken war, so spürte ich den Atem und ich glaube, in diesen zwei Wochen sind wir Freunde geworden. Übrigens durften die 11 Tiere in der Mittagspause und dann auch am Abend frei laufen und sich Futter suchen. Es wurden die beiden Vorderbeine gebunden, so dass die Tiere in kleinen Trippelschritten laufen konnten. In der Nacht waren sie also frei und am Morgen wurden sie wieder zum Rastplatz geführt, beladen und dann begann ein neuer Abenteuertag.
Während des Kamelritts konnte ich leider keine Fotos schießen. Ich musste mich festhalten wegen des Passgangs der Tiere, die ständig hin und her schwankten wie ein Boot. Deshalb nennt man sie nicht umsonst „Wüstenschiffe“. Zum Glück hatten wir Inés dabei, die so sicher auf dem Kamel saß, dass sie wunderschöne Aufnahmen machen konnte, ohne aus dem Sattel zu rutschen.
Wenn wir am Abend nach dem Essen unser Nachtlager aufsuchten – Isomatte auf weichem, sandigen Untergrund und darauf der wärmende Schlafsack -, dann habe ich lange in den Sternenhimmel geschaut, Sternschnuppen und Satelliten in ihrer Umlaufbahn gesehen. Ganz entfernt hörte ich dann unsere Begleiter, die am Feuer saßen, wie sie erzählten und lachten. Am Tage hatten sie durch das Beladen der Tiere viele Anstrengungen, aber immer waren sie freundlich, aufmerksam und hilfsbereit. In den ganzen zwei Wochen, die wir unterwegs waren, fiel kein böses Wort, unsere Begleiter waren gleichbleibend ausgeglichen und nett.
Ein Höhepunkt der Reise war ein Abend, an dem das Nachtlager an einer besonders schönen Stelle aufgeschlagen wurde und dann nach dem Abendessen musiziert wurde. Ein Tuareg spielte Gitarre und ein anderer trommelte auf einem Wasserkanister. Wir saßen im Kreis um das Feuer und klatschten im Takt, später tanzten noch zwei Personen und ich musste mich immer wieder in den Arm kneifen um festzustellen, ob es ein Traum oder Wirklichkeit ist. Es war die Wirklichkeit und diese war unbeschreiblich schön und bewirkte ordentliches Herzklopfen.
Was mich an der Wüste so beeindruckt hat ist die Klarheit und Ruhe, sie hat mich fasziniert. Sie ist Erholung pur für unsere Sinne, die sonst ständig einer Reizüberflutung ausgesetzt sind.
Die Tuareg sagen, die Europäer haben die Uhr, sie aber haben die Zeit. Und so war es auch auf unserer Reise. Keiner hatte eine Uhr, alles wurde trotzdem mit viel Gefühl für die Zeit durchgeführt.
Immer werde ich gern an diese Erlebnisse denken, dankbar sein, dass ich an dieser Reise teilnehmen durfte und in mir die Sehnsucht spüren, nach diesem Land und diesen besonderen Menschen.
Helga H.